There are only a few destinations in southern Thailand that tourists tend to visit over and over. The rest of the region remains underexposed, off the beaten track for all but veteran travellers.

Trang and its relatively low-profile islands were a virtual mystery until this past valentine's Day, when an unusaul underwater wedding ceremony staged by Thai Airways International captured attention worldwide.

Suddenly, Trang was being mentioned alongside Krabi as an alternative destination to busy Phuket, for both foreign and local travellers.

The wide variety of islands running from north to south off the Trang coasts is one incentive to visit the province. To go island-hopping, it's best to pick an appropriate pier in order to set out for the closet group.

One recent afternoon, we gathered at Laem Taseh, bound for Ko Sukhon. We spent an hour in a small converted fishing boat called Reu Pong, roaring in a watery line through a mudflat of mangroves and eventually exiting the green maze into the open sea.

Sukhon means "pigs" and was named from the wild boars that were set to have inhabited the island. Ironically, the island's residents are Muslim and rely on fishing and farming.

There are two resorts on the island. The 19-room Ko Sukhon Beach Bungalows, run by a Dane in partnership with a Thai, has been open for two years, while the Ko Sukhan-Resort is a few minutes' drive away.

On reaching the Ko Sukhon pier in late afternoon, we were taken in a truck by Mr Dick, the resort owner, to the resort on the other side of the island, along a small road past paddy fields arid rubber trees.

Ko Sukhon is a good spot to stay overnight in order to explore the neighbouring islands - Ko Phetra, Ko Takiang, the twin islands of north and south Laoliang, and Ko Libong, the biggest in Trang.

March and April are especially enjoyable times to visit, since visitors can watch the sun set directly over the channel between the north and south Laoling.

Unfortunately, Ko Phetra and the islands of Laoliang are off-limits to tourists, as Phetra national park officials have given a private company a swiftlet nest-collecting concession. Only southern Laoliang can be visited if prior permission has been obtained.

Ko Sukhon remains relatively untouched by tourism. It has about 2,500 people living in four villages, and only four cars, according to the operator of Ko Sukhon Beach Bungalows. Scenes of fishermen fixing nets or bringing in the catch of the day are part of day-to-day life and not staged for the benefit of visitors.

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In fact, the eyebrows of local residents are raised in curiosity when they spot new faces sauntering past their homes, as visits by strangers to the island are unusual. But the local residents' friendliness is evident at a wooden shophouse on stilts on a beach, where dried, salted fish are the main offering.

When I walk to photograph.
"Why not come up here and rest?" a hospitable old man called out as I stepped forward to take a photograph. As I greeted a sleeping eat, he brought me another black cat that might also might make a suitable picture subject.

When the sun hangs low near the horizon in the late afternoon, the sandy stretch in front of the Ko Sukhon Beach Bungalows is quiet and expansive with retreating tides. A beach volleyball game is an enjoyable way to unwind, while other maintain that having a cool drink and watching the sunset is much better.

The next morning it was time to explore other islands. We left the pier at Ko behind schedule as our boat was delayed. At noon we managed to set out for south Laoliang, armed with permission granted from the swiftlet nest-collecting company.

Evidence that the island is rarely touched by tourist visits can be found in the translucent jadecoloured water, which reveals the pristine condition of the underwater ecosystem. If not for the remains of some trash left on the beach, I'd like to have believed that the island was totally uninhabited.

We get off the boat on an unnamed beach carpeted with lush vegetation to find shade beside a colossal rock wall. But no sooner do we manage to open our lunch boxes, than an army of voracious mosquitoes swoops down on us. We finally retreat to the boat for fear of getting malaria, all the while wondering how the guards who keep intruders away from the swiftleft caves manage to deal with the hungry insects.

The boat moves on to nearby Ko Takiang, so called for the lighthouse on the island. There is enough time to grab our snorkelling gear and explore the turquoise water. The hard corals are not so impressive but the aquarium fish were more appealing.

As the afternoon wound down, the converted fishing boat snakes a two-hour crossing to Ko Kradan, situated in another group of islands. With an early-monsoon raincloud in pursuit, we make it to the island without getting wet.

Ko Kradan is quite busy with tourists, thanks partly to a TV commercial broadcast by Thai Airways International. The eastern side of the island is headquarters to the forestry unit of Chao Mai national park. There is only one resort, with a trail cut across to the western side where travellers can watch sunset. As in several other islands prone that are experiencing more tourist visits, the hard corals off the beach at Ko Kradan are declining.

The next day we set out to other neighbouring islands. Ko Mook, which is home to a Muslim community with its own mosque, has two resorts. But the island's chief attraction is Tham Morakot (Emerald Cave). Visitors to this spectacular structure cannot just sit in a boat and cruise into the cave, though. The passageaway inside the cave leads to a lagoon, and the only one way to get to the lagoon is by swimming for a length of 80 metres. 

The emerald-coloured water inside the cave is awesome, and there's an element of excitement from swimming in total darkness guided only by a flashlight. Just be sure to have a life vest and keep away from touching the razor-sharp shellcoated rock walls.

In a few exciting moments, light appears at the other end of the tunnel, revealing the green body of water surrounded by towering cliff faces.

Snorkelling enthusiasts should not miss  Ko Cheuk, two towering chunks of mountains separated by a narrow channel. Between the rocks the water is rich with sea life, including soft corals, aquarium fish and hard reefs. Visibility was not good when we visited, though - due to the overcast sky, the soft corals clinging to the underwater rock slope were not so spectacular in terms of color.

With the weather growing unstable, we move to Ko Ma (Horse Island) to find shelter from windy sea, and then to nearby Ko Ngai. There are three resorts on this island, including Ko Ngai Resort, Ko Ngai Villa and Ko ngai Fantasy.

By now the wind was gathering considerable strength, and all the boats were docking in the bays of Ko Ngai as the sea was too rough. The unscheduled stop turned out to be a bonus, as we were able to tour the island for a few hours until the sea began to settle down. With compliments from Ko Nai Resort, wichh has its own ferry, we finally obtained a safe ride back to Ko Kradan.

Getting there
Trang located 864 km south of Bangkok, can be reached by bus from the Southern Bus Terminal, and by train from Hua Lamphong. Thai Airways International flies to Trang everyday.

Getting around
Laem Taseh Pier, 53 km from Trang provincial town, is the starting point for outgoings to Ko Sukhon, Ko Takiang and Ko Laoliang. Pakmeng Pier, 35 km from the town, is the base for trips to the islands of Ngai, Kradan and Mook. Ko Ngai Resort has a ferry leaving Pakmeng Pier daily at 10 am

Side trips
Ko Libong, the biggest in the province, does not have an especially attractive beach but it is a good spot to watch water birds. Libong Resort can be reached from Ban Hat Yao pier, 45 km from Trang Town.

For divers
Hin Muang and Hin Duang shelter an abundance of fish and soft corals. Most diving companies in Bangkok and Phuket, Krabi and Phi Phi offer diving opportunities in Trang, as does Trang Scuba Dive Centre. The best time to go island-hopping is between November and  April when the monsoon retreats.

For Island Sightseeing
Khao Khob Cave in Huai Yot can be reached by a boat ride operated by  the Khao Khob tambon administration. The cave features unusual limestone formations while the second  section has wondrous stalactites in myriads of nnedle-like formations. To go through the last section, visitors must lie flat as the space between you and the ceiling is limited. The cave is accesible for about seven months a year, but when rains swell the stream, it is impossible to get in.